Fashion at the Edge

Fashion at the edge:   haunting, spectacle, glamour, cruelty, disconnection, and trauma, in the 1980’s and 90’s these designers explored it all


Leigh Bowery


Thierry Mugler  1997 S/S Haute Couture



Vivenne Westwood  Biography

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Worlds end fashion show – Pirate collection


Boy George


Adam Ant

Punkature Pairs, 1982

A/W 1993-94


Alexander McQueen

Nihilism 1994  Nihilism: “Life is without objective meaning, purpose, or intrinsic value.”


For his first staged runway show, Lee McQueen presented models that appeared to have been victims of a car wreck, or in the eyes of some reviewers, abuse. They walk down the runway spattered in what appears to be blood or dirt, and wear pants cut so low on the hip that they reveal the top of the models’ bottoms

Highland Rape 1995   info Highland Rape,” which introduced the world not only to the designer’s trademark bumster pants, but also to his fierce national pride. The models’ torn garments and bloodied bodies ignited a fury, but this was no endorsement of rape, it was an exploration of Scotland’s turbulent history with England.

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Dante 1996 Dante was shown in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, London with a skeleton seated front row. Beauty and blasphemy were woven throughout this wide-ranging collection  AMcQ experimented with denim and Victoriana, tropes that he would return to again and again.


La Poupee 1997 The Doll. Inspired by the artist Hans Bellmer, who fetishistically rearranged toy dolls, McQueen experimented with proportion and, more disturbingly, trussed the models in various metal restraints.

McQ 'SS '97

Creating an art piece 1999 This show was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, and it ended with the model Shalom Harlow rotating on a turntable, wearing a white dress, being spray-painted by two industrial robots. Shalom Harlow trained as a ballerina. It is often said that the inspiration behind the collection was the dying swan



Martin Margiela Bio documentary 


FW 1992



Maison Martin Margiela - S-S 1997 Margielaform_semicouture



Hussein Chalayan

Wood Bodice



Fall/Winter 1998

Spring 1998


Spring 1999


Autumn / Winter 2000



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