Fashion at the edge:   haunting, spectacle, glamour, cruelty, disconnection, and trauma, in the 1980’s and 90’s these designers explored it all

 

Leigh Bowery

f71600958a6873dc86b2cc72c7512fba

Thierry Mugler  1997 S/S Haute Couture

1468679918-073-thierry-mugler-theredlist

 

Vivenne Westwood  Biography

Screen Shot 2016-05-17 at 6.05.47 PM

Worlds end fashion show – Pirate collection

tumblr_inline_o2pef83nFS1rdhhpc_540

Boy George

tumblr_mmg5jaaeQN1ru3nkuo1_400

Adam Ant

Punkature Pairs, 1982

A/W 1993-94

 

Alexander McQueen

Nihilism 1994  Nihilism: “Life is without objective meaning, purpose, or intrinsic value.”

tumblr_mr6736pXR91rllxbgo4_400

For his first staged runway show, Lee McQueen presented models that appeared to have been victims of a car wreck, or in the eyes of some reviewers, abuse. They walk down the runway spattered in what appears to be blood or dirt, and wear pants cut so low on the hip that they reveal the top of the models’ bottoms

Highland Rape 1995   info Highland Rape,” which introduced the world not only to the designer’s trademark bumster pants, but also to his fierce national pride. The models’ torn garments and bloodied bodies ignited a fury, but this was no endorsement of rape, it was an exploration of Scotland’s turbulent history with England.

McQ.215a, b_mcq.202.AV0

Dante 1996 Dante was shown in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, London with a skeleton seated front row. Beauty and blasphemy were woven throughout this wide-ranging collection  AMcQ experimented with denim and Victoriana, tropes that he would return to again and again.

tumblr_m7yhbn7jv51qmbiswo1_1280

La Poupee 1997 The Doll. Inspired by the artist Hans Bellmer, who fetishistically rearranged toy dolls, McQueen experimented with proportion and, more disturbingly, trussed the models in various metal restraints.

McQ 'SS '97

Creating an art piece 1999 This show was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, and it ended with the model Shalom Harlow rotating on a turntable, wearing a white dress, being spray-painted by two industrial robots. Shalom Harlow trained as a ballerina. It is often said that the inspiration behind the collection was the dying swan

landscape_1423663058-3_spray_painted_dress_no_13_ss_1999_model_-_shalom_harlow_image_-_catwalking

 

Martin Margiela Bio documentary 

maison_martin_margiela_2011_1

FW 1992

 

9d4c9a9c3c1b73c3371b721d79b63c7a

Maison Martin Margiela - S-S 1997 Margielaform_semicouture

1997

 

Hussein Chalayan

Wood Bodice

3a80609558994936896c72ce072e737c

KassAndMarnayDressesHusseinChalayanNYMay1998

Fall/Winter 1998

Spring 1998

tumblr_nyz5fqjEVx1qahy1wo1_500

Spring 1999

1468679918-050-hussein-chalayan-theredlist

Autumn / Winter 2000

 

Advertisements

Democratic vs. communist / socialist

Space Race

Space suit  

c4189973ad630545496edcc37d19a7a9

Frank Horvat, American Man and woman in spacesuits.  1963. Photograph 

2001 a Space Odyssey, Sir Hardy Amies Designer

SOURCE CREDIT - "British Film Institute" Reproduction of this image requires the appropriate copyright clearance. In making this image available, the bfi confers no licence to use or copy the image. All copyright clearance is the responsibility of the user. In consideration for making this image available, the user hereby agrees to indemnify the bfi against any claim or liability arising from the use of this image. The information service of the bfi National Library may be able to carry out copyright ownership research on your behalf. Fax +44 (0) 20 7436 0165 for details of services and costs. British Film Institute 21 Stephen Street London W1T 1LN Tel +44 (0) 20 7255 1444 http://www.bfi.org.uk/

SOURCE CREDIT – “British Film Institute”
Reproduction of this image requires the appropriate copyright clearance. In making this image available, the bfi confers no licence to use or copy the image. All copyright clearance is the responsibility of the user.
In consideration for making this image available, the user hereby agrees to indemnify the bfi against any claim or liability arising from the use of this image.
The information service of the bfi National Library may be able to carry out copyright ownership research on your behalf. Fax +44 (0) 20 7436 0165 for details of services and costs.
British Film Institute
21 Stephen Street
London W1T 1LN
Tel +44 (0) 20 7255 1444
http://www.bfi.org.uk/

 

Rudi Gernreich

ab66269557467ddc02cd20bc10182a98

clothing with Armor, 1960’s

1967 Fashion Show

035-barbara-streisand-theredlist-e1424661265225

Early 1970’s right after Apollo moon walk.

 

Paco Rabanne 

Fashion Show

rabanne

1960’s metal dress

fashion-designer-paco-rabanne-on-the-film-set-of-casino-royale-at-EWR5HNa

Casino Royale 1967

Paco-Rabanne-at-RA-Paris-1024x662

Barbarella costumes  Paco R and Jacques Fonteray  1968

Jane-Fonda-as-Barbarella-

Jane Fonda as Barbarella 1968

Roger-Vadim-preparing-Jane-Fonda’s-outfit-during-the-making-film-of-Barbarella-in-1967

Roger Vadim preparing Jane Fonda’s outfit in Barbaarella 1967

 

Pierre Cardin – Cosmocorps

20251419Cardin2

6d6655940441f2324610d33e64acebf5

528b734d7fbf189366a5cb152a9cd3d8

7b5f0423245ede016b6d185cc610232b

Fashion Show 1969

Fashion Show 1970

 

Alice Edeling: tunic and boots, metallic fabric, late 1960’s.  The Netherlands.

Screen Shot 2016-05-17 at 9.41.18 AM

 

 

 

Emilio Pucci “space bubble” 1965

31072eb625e011c36ce0d1ed67f5a50a

 

 

Andre Courreges   inventor of the mini dress

Designer-André-Courrèges-Master-Of-Miniskirts-And-Go-Go-Boots-Dies-462404540-1452287704

tumblr_nkg3fu19fT1rtvxeio4_500

005-andre-courreges-theredlist

mini-dress-inventor-andre2

André Courrèges - Space Age (2)

1970 Fashion Video  Space age video

 

Gijs Bakker

1967gr

Polly Magoo

Film

 

Diana Dew 1967

18s157yildee0jpg

Haus Rucker co 1967

hausrucker_1-960x690

haus-rucker-co

Haus_Rucker_Co

Plans

Video

 

 

 

 

 

 

Against Fashion: Clothing as Art 1850-1930

Henry Van de Velde in Germany

“The evolution of ideas and of the conditions of social life cannot make do solely with painting and statues.  It is madness to consider only these for our material existence and it’s blindness to believe they can satisfy all  the art needs of our time”

“nothing will enter our home except what I have conceived and designed myself”

Gesamtkunstwerk: the total work of art.

Velde1

Maria Sethe, Mrs. Van de Velde clothes were treated like any other object in the house.  Match her dresses with the vegetable puree served at dinner.

Van de Velde didn’t design his own clothing, as he believed men’s clothing was already far more rational than women’s.   “Fashion is flighty, unfaithful, coquettish, and naturally delusive.

IMG_2410

His theories in his own  country have little impact, but he did inspire other artist, designers and architects to do the same: Frank Lloyd Wright designed his wife’s dresses.   When his career takes him to Germany, there is anti fashion theories are more favorably received.

  1. unified German nation, was experiencing an economic boom, and a great interest in Kunstgewerbe (applied arts) and it’s relationship to industry.
  2. Germany was a favorite place for dress reform that had been initiated by feminist and hygienists.

Kaiser Wilhelm-Museum hosted an exhibition of rational dress, Van de Velde show’s six of his wife’s dresses.  Exhibition was a great success and similar shows followed.  Exhibiting and spreading inspiration of the applied arts, of which fashion was one.

Last attempt to establish artistic dress in 1910’s  Germany was the Modehaus Alfred-Marie, a fashion house opened in 1914 by the painter and dress designer Otto Ludwig Haas-Heye.  Very successful but rejected by avant-garde because it was too commercially oriented.

ac3d8a3764cb8e3149cede8be51c13e2

Klimt and the Wiener Werkstatte

Founded in 1903 by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser on the model of the Century Guild of Arthur Mackmurdo and the Guild of Handicraft of Charles Robert Ashbee, the Wiener Werkstatte, “a society for the production of craft”, any distinction between art and craft was abolished.

IMG_2412

 

Like van de Velde, Hoffmann thought the artist had to consider every detail of his surroundings, it was the only way to achieve harmony.

Modeabteilung “architect of fashion”

IMG_2416

7hoffmanndress

Wiener Werkstatte fashion ablum 

austrian-fashion-design-book-presentation-event-09997

Friederika Maria Beer in a Wiener-Werkstatte ensamble made from the fabric “maria” by Dagobert Peche.

Hoffman “as long as our cities, our homes, our rooms, our cupboards, our tools, our dress and finery, as long as our language and our feelings will not symbolize in a simple and beautiful way the spirit of our times, we will be relegated to an infinite distance from our ancestors, and no lie will ever be able to conceal these weaknesses”

IMG_2353

Artist Gustav Klimt

IMG_2355

Klimt and Emile Floge, 1905-10, dress probably designed by Klimt. 

Kunsterkleid artist dress.  Limited impact, created by an artist, such clothing is not primarily a practical object but rather a genuine work of art, whose foremost quality is beauty.  Radically opposed to that of his main rival, Adolf Loos, who believed that talking about the beauty of clothing in art was a sort of heresy:  “a painting by Botticelli, a melody by Burns, these are beautiful things.  But a pair of trousers?…A jacket must have two or three buttons? The cut of the collar should be high or low? I am seized by anxiety when i hear people discussing the beauty of such things.  I become nervous when one asks me about a garment, “is this not beautiful?”

Eduard Wimmer-Wisgrill, lead the Mode-abteilung from 1911-22, and he followed the line of kunsterkleid (art dress), he favored a style halfway between the Reformkleid (reform dress) and the orientalizing costume.

IMG_2351

Wimmer-Wisgrill: project for a dress with “harem pants” 1914

 

Futurism and Dress

“Today’s woman loves luxury more than love.  A visit to a great dressmaker’s establishment, escorted by a paunch, gouty banker friend who pays the bills, is a perfect substitute for the most amorous rendezvous with an adored young man.  The woman finds all the mystery of love in the selection of an amazing ensemble, the latest model, which her friends still do not have.”

 

Futurist Manifesto.  Futurism wanted to reconstruction of the universe.  Fascism and Futurism

jmt

Marinetti: fashion is evil, it corrupts women, who are too weak to resist the temptation of the latest garment.

Giacomo Balla: in 1912 Balla first futurist to design clothes.

20 May 1914, Balla published the Futurist Manifesto on clothing, “Male Futurist Dress”.  To escape from the depressing established approach to clothing, Balla wanted to completely abolish mourning dress; dark or faded colors; striped, checked, or spotted fabrics; symmetry in cut; uniformity of lapels; useless buttons; and the detachable collar and starched  cuffs.  Futurist Dress would be dynamic, asymmetrical, nimble, simple and comfortable, hygienic, joyful, illuminating, willful, flying and most of all, variable.

9364222fabc1f46a3f8cdc4afcc4a111

IMG_3

Modifiers applique pieces of cloth (of different size, thickness or color) that can be attached at will to any part of the dress with pneumatic buttons.  Not limited to color and texture as some of them were perfumed. Thus anyone could invent a new dress at any time depending on the mood.  The wearer is given control over the changes in dress.

The futurist reconstruction of the universe  French “transformable clothes” made using “mechanical trimmings surprises, tricks, disappearance of individuals”

“light-giving” quality of clothes, requirenment to use phosphorescent cloth.

b4160246df2d7ea0834ba9f6ffd58020

IMG_2357

Balla: projects for futurist ties.  1925-1930

IMG_2359

Balla-projects for scarves. 1919

IMG_2361

Screen Shot 2016-05-13 at 5.11.42 PM

IMG_2373

Balla – projects for Futurist jacket 1914

IMG_2380

Balla-Futurist shoes 1916-1918, 1929, and Dress 1930

IMG_2435

IMG_2429

IMG_2431

Balla – projects for blouses and sweaters 1930

 

1914 The Antineutral Dress Bella, Italian verison.  “we will glorify war, the world’s only hygiene” favored Italy’s entry into WWII

Futurist Clothes had to:  main qualities became aggressiveness, “to increase the flexibility of the body and to favor its surge to fight” and dynamism, “to inspire the love of danger, of speed and assault and the hatred of peace and immobility”  First manifesto promoted comfort, the second was associated with military practicalities such as rifle shooting.

The heroic dead should not be mourned, but celebrated by  wearing red clothes.   Modifiers were illustrated like those of the French manifesto, but were changed to be “warlike”

White Green Red Mourning suit for Marinetti

White red blue suit for Francesco Cangiullo

White red green suit for Umberto Boccioni

Red all piece suit for Cardo Carra

Green Pullover white and red jacket for Luigi Russolo

“living flags”

IMG_2437

IMG_2441

IMG_2439

IMG_2443

Balla – Projects for Suits and Fabrics 1914

“this intrinsic provocation in Futurist dress is not only based on imagination, it also involves behavior…a behavioral input aimed at the achievement of great ability and nonchalance in everyday actions and social relations.  This type of behavioral induction is an integral part of Futurist ideological writing, for which the garment  is a visible sign.  It is not possible to be Futurist without acting in the real world in a Futurist manner, and the correct dress is the visible sign of this intention.

IMG_2449

Balla- project for a house dress. 1925

IMG_2451

Balla- embroidered waistcoat worn by the artist. 1924

IMG_2453

Balla – project for a dress 1929

IMG_2455

Balla- project for a swim suit, 1930.

Second generation of Futurist Artist:

1932 Tullio Crali “eliminating what is superfluous”

IMG_2381

Grey Flannel jacket with no details or pockets and only one lapel. Tie is banished from the suit.

IMG_2458

Crali- Project for a dress. 1932

The Tuta: comfort, simplicity, and hygiene.  It could be made by oneself.  1000 patterns were sold in a few days.  Gave birth to a new group called i tutisti.  Motivated by the economic precariousness postwar period, responding to scarcity and a protest against the cost of traditional clothes.   Variations on the american overalls.

IMG_2387

a7f8f2973967d238c8a3c57f7b2f9318

Enresto Michahelles, aka Thayaht Tuta Jumpsuit for men

The Russian Avant-Garde and Dress

No other country in which fashion was so attacked as in revolutionary Russia.  The reproaches of the dress reformers who has accused fashion of being unhealthy and immoral were replaced by an ideological stance:  fashion was essentially a bourgeois phenomenon and, as such, it was expected to die together with the social class that produced it.

Productivism the most radical group of Russian avant-garde  “the last painting has been painted”

Painting had lost it’s social phenomenon.  Elitist and strongly individualistic form of art that was too closely connected with decoration and museums.   No impact on the masses.

Constructivism 

Constructive life is the art of the future.

Art that fails to become a part of life will be catalogued in the museum of archeological antiquities.

It is time for art to organize itself and become part of life.

In order to accomplish this ambitious project of changing the world and replacing the creation of art with the “construction of life”, artist had to abandon their personal aesthetic goals and dedicate themselves to the collective aim of building a new communist lifestyle.   Reshaping the world of objects.

IMG_2388

Varvara Stepanova- caricature of Alexei Gan, 1922.

Clothing was part of the large family of everyday objects.

The social importance of dress was a common theme in the libertarian tradition, Pyotro Kropotkin had called for the abolition of fashion and “the communalization of clothing”

“But every on will want a sable-lined coat or a velvet gown” exclaim our adversaries.  Frankly, we do not believe it.  Every woman does not dote on velvet, no does every man dream of sable linings.  Even no, if we were to ask each woman to choose her gown, we should find some prefer a simple, practical garment to all fantastic trimmings the fashionable world affects.

Dress symbolically preserved class distinction, in the new revolutionary world class wasn’t supposed to exist.

Dress down, to dress up, to dress equally, and not to dress at all.

Major function of clothes was to express revolutionary change symbolically.

the word “fashion” was an insult.

Vladimir Tatlin, founder of Constructivsim, “anti fashion” “constructed clothes”   Not a subject to draw but a constructed thing.

IMG_2392

Vladimir Tatlin – Man’s suit and overcoat 1924

Comfortable, long lasting, easy to clean, freedom of movement, accommodate all body positions.

IMG_2394

Tatlin – Project for a dress 1924., Project for an overcoat. 1924 detail.

Designed as prototypes for the textile industry, and the ideas of “normalization” and “standardization” were key concepts.

Varvara Stepanova  Liubov Popova.  Worked for the first cotton printing factory in Moscow.

IMG_2396

Stepanova wearing a Constructivist dress.  1924

IMG_2398

IMG_2400

Popova and Stepanova, caricatures 1924

1923: Stepanova “present day dress – production and clothing, should be replaced by a conception of dress based on use.

Three types of dress:

Prozodezhda (production dress)  adapated to the wearers profession, maximum comfort

Stepanova’s husband made his own version of Prozodezhda of wool and leather on a singer sewing machine.   Artist working suit

IMG_2403

 

IMG_2405

spetsodezhda – a specialized garment with a specific productive function.  Protective clothing needed by surgeons, pilots, firefighters, workers in acid factories, or arctic explorers. 

sportodezhda – dress for sport.  Sport is the soul of the citizens. 

IMG_2420

Stepanova – Projects for sport clothing.

The designs of Popova and Stepanova were in complete discrepancy with the social and economic conditions of the times and hardly ever got beyond prototype.

Less radical, Nadezhda Lamonova was  also opposed to the tyranny of fashion.

Lamanova had a successful career in haute couture before the revolution and was a friend of Paul Poiret, evolved towards a hybrid position.  She mixed dress reform with Russian folk costume.

IMG_2406

Lamanova- Pioneer’s attire. 1925, Projects for sport clothes, 1925.

Outfits adapted to the individual figure. Eigenkleid “personalized dress”

 

IMG_2408

Lamanova- Projects for a dress 1925

IMG_2422

Lamanova- Project for a caftan.

IMG_2424

Lamanova – Project for a dress

 

Sonia Delaunay 

Simultaneism – style of painting based on contrasts of color.    Simultane is an art of depth that technically expresses in the raw material – painting, music, dresses, posters, books, furniture, color and the universal matter.

As an expansion of painting, simultaneous clothes were clearly antifashion, using painterly techniques to attach traditional fashion.  The combination of colors destroyed any well-defined shape of the cut, and the association of different fabrics with varied textures contributed to the breaking up of form.

IMG_2465

Delaunay – Jacket 1923.

IMG_2467

Delaunay – Projects for dresses, 1924-1925

IMG_2473

Delaunay – Project for a swimming suit. 1928

 

Fashion and Surrealism 

Metaphor and Metamorphosis Fashion and its instruments were at the heart of Surrealist metaphor, touching on the imagery of women and the correlation between the world of real objects and the life of objects in the mind.

562578_orig

Man Ray, Gift 1921

As the Surrealists would have it, beauty comes by chance because of the innately superior conditions of the subconscious to those that are controlled and regulated by reason.

6bb37945293871015bcb213392ef2a4b

Oscar Dominguez (French, born Spain 1906-1957)  Electrosexual Sewing Machine 1934

Sewing machine is a surrogate for a woman.

Cornell

Joseph Cornell (American, 1903-72)

Untitled, 1931  Reproduced under the rubric “the pulse of fashion” Cornell’s collage was the embodiment of women as garment and of the sewing machine as creative enterprise.

Addressing “the embodiment of woman as the garment and the sewing machine as creative enterprise”

The object provides an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations could have meaning.

cc687770d98c0298e8962e53b1089109

e5939ebec5934cf2e3d5f90ae4dc2beb

ee94587b8bc85cbaebd906a89736598a

Max Ernst (1891-1976) Plates from Fiat Modes, Pereat ars (let there be fashion, down with art) 1919

Working in Cologne, in 1919 Ernst pronounced the dressmakers art to be the equal of, it not superior to the fine arts. Fiat Modes, adopts the mannequin figures of Chirico’s and transforms them into creations that are uniquely Ernst’s own.

726

Man Ray, Le Violon d’ingres, 1924. Man Ray’s vision of woman as musical instrument satirizes the cubist obsession with the  guitar.

Dominique Lacoustille Window Dress, 1985

a748d165aa3b7990b5f77be14d9d77c9

Photographed next to a real window, this witty dress realizes the Surrealist metaphor.  As a window conceals as well as reveals, so the garment conceals and reveals the body, affirming the visual congruity of the window and dress.

 

Bodies and Parts

disturbing-muses-1918

Giorgio De Chirico. The disquieting Muses, 1917.  The altered dress form is a metaphor combing mechanistic and personal elements to create a symbol of the human.  Like a puppet, the mannequin clearly refers to the figure, and the assemblage of parts is a mechanical equivalent to anatomy.

1979.570.1_F

Marisol (Venezuelan, born France) Body Coat (painted on a design by Jacques Kaplan) 1960.  Audaciously feigning nudity through the coat, Marisol recapitulates the concept of Man Ray’s Coat Stand.

5074753_1_l

tumblr_m7jdctYd8V1rbo2gco1_500

Salvador Dali. Night and Day Clothes of the Body, 1936.  Dali’s ingenious antipodes of night and day, revelation and concealment, stiffness and softness, and light and dark give form to the concept of clothing as possessing its own life.  The mystery that Dali offers is the essential paradox of clothing.

5898693689_9fb228ed6c

George Platt Lynes.  Elizabeth Gibbons with Umbrella and Mask. 1940

The scrim like transparency of  the garment, more cocoon than clothing, softens the figure to an elegant nudity while the mask and umbrella accompany such idealism with prurient mischief.

homage-to-mack-sennett

Rene Magritte.  Homage to Mack Sennett. 1934.  Magritte explores the intimate eroticism of clothing and the undeniable sense of the individual within the garment. Both the memory of the body and the anticipation of its presence obtain even as the clothing may hang in a wardrobe.

Elsa Schiaparelli – Shocking 

05friedman-sub-blog427

Elsa 1936 / Chanel 1929

Swimwear

b59306ebf7ba6deb10d74da24e1bed88

1929

 

de2balvarez

Sportswear 1925

b981f4d1a57eb327a0a75a13295c32fd

5_99e3c8bf-a8a6-47b7-896a-bb56f500615e

79b2fe84889238a54434a1450c48cf7c

Sweaters, 1925

lili-and-swim-double

Divided skirt patten 1931

bathing-suits-in-vogue-1928-07-01-hoyningen_114236400320_600x600_100KB

gloves

6-Gloves-Elsa-Schiaparelli-Summer-1939-Philadelphia-Museum-of-Art-Or-Not-Magazine

 

Hats

schiap-page-of-shocking-blum-hat-sketches

77756-2

Shoe Hat

851ca79a27087a0ed4d0053c4578f46b

851ca79a27087a0ed4d0053c4578f46b

ES_Featured_image

73153d861c4a87a4d3de2834cdb711ba

scha3

 

Lobster Dress

the-lobster-dress-by-elsa-schiaparelli-1937

Dali collaboration

COAT1969-232-7-schiaparelli

Collaboration with Jean Cocteau

 

d6608b70c93558602a004c96f8e269d6

Butterfly dress collaboration with Man Ray

dae80d492be1e32bd270760709f15afb

Man Ray collaboration

le-beaux-temps-man-ray-1939-philamuseum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wearing Propaganda: 1931-45 Textiles and apparel on the home front in Japan, Britain and United States.

As well as casting new light on wartime propaganda methods, it provides fascinating insights into the divergent attitudes towards patriotism and war in the three countries in question

The contrast between the personal, intimate nature of these garments, including various types of kimono, obi (sash) and haori (jacket) and their strident nationalistic imagery was startling

Whereas all the British and American textiles were either roller-printed by machine, or screen-printed or block-printed by hand, the Japanese employed a variety of techniques, including kasuri, where the warp is printed, rather than the cloth, resulting in blurred effects. Many kimonos were produced as one-offs. Some were hand-painted rather than printed; many were decorated using stencils, paste-resists and dyes, a process known as yüzen.

Part 1: Setting the Context 1931-1945

Asia Pacific War begins with Manchurian Incident in 1931  Japan gains power, sees itself a modern

Hitler on the Rise in Germany

Britain 1939 declares war on Germany

US Pearl Harbor 1941

Propaganda on the Home Fronts:

Visual Propaganda, appeals to emotions vs. intellect

fa1a8fb75816f09df897be2ee9826928

world-war-ii-propaganda

Homefront: morale and motivation are lost, commitment to battle soon follows.

Propaganda involves: a sender, a message, a receiver, a purpose, a medium and an effect.

Includes: national visual culture, popular, and material culture: posters, cartoons, leaflets, advertising, cinema, radio and news media to get the message across.

Agitation propaganda – call to action

Integration propaganda – substituting one framework for another war to peace, moral, social, and intellectual indoctrination.

V is for Victory

V4victory 004

Propaganda textiles were worn in Japan by adults and children, and used for traditional clothing such as kimono, obi, nagajuban, haori, and in accessories haneri, furoshiki, tenugui, and furoshiki.

kimono

Furoshiki were favored as military mementos’ and were made with designs referencing specific military units or events.

Tenugui were made for household use, zabuton and futon.

Represent traditional masculine attributes: power, bravery and loyalty.

Koinobori – carp banner flown for boy’s holidays

IMG_2313

Kobuto – samurai helmets

1199001728_h_16

Gosho ningyo – doll figure

1141_043_0

IMG_2283

American and British propaganda textiles were made into dress goods for women’s accessories, such as handkerchiefs and scarves.  For men ties were the logical place.

Propaganda Precedents – pre 1930’s

m-1959-742-6-apotheosis-of-washington-and-franklin-4-pastperfect

Bedcover, “the apotheosis of Benjamin Franklin and George Washington” Britain ca. 1785

IMG_2226

Handkerchief, “Playing Soldiers” Britain 1880.

IMG_2230

Dress yardage “the Union Forever” 1861-65. Printed cotton.

IMG_2231

Kerchief. “remember the Maine” 1898.

IMG_2235

Japan, 1894 war board game.

IMG_2239

Short Silk Juban, 1905.

IMG_2243

Russo-Japanese War Surrender, Japan 1905.  Kimono Fabric, early 20th century.

 

 

Part 2: Visual Culture of War

Japan’s Beautiful Modern War

IMG_2245

Childs Kimono detail. 1937

IMG_2247 (1)

1930’s Japanese government posters

IMG_2249

Potatoes are Protective, Too

IMG_2251

Textile: Battle of Britain. 1940.

Ministry of Food Ad. 1943.

Cover of Boo-Boo barrage Balloon.  1940.

Barrage balloons used the largest stretches of textiles in Britain during WWII.  Riveting home front icon.  Lowly potatoes come into play as a stand in balloon.

IMG_2253

Dress.  Happy Landings.  Designed by Arnold Lever 1940.

Woman versus man became enemy versus ally.

IMG_2256

Kerchief “keep it dark” 1940

Dress detail: mosaic of “you never know who’s listening” 1940’s.

 

An American Vision Doing our part.

IMG_2261

Posters

IMG_2259

Broadside and poster

IMG_2263

Pincushion “hotzi notzi” 1941

 

Part 3: Wearing Propaganda: fashion, textiles and morale on the home front.

Extravagance is the enemy

IMG_2265

Woman’s Haori.  “the thrill of the flight” late 1920’s – early 1930’s

Narrow width weaving

IMG_2267

Childs Haregi. “images of war” late 1930’s

Meisen Kimono

Give up dresses and kimono and wear a Monpe, make up and permanent waves were banned in 1939.

monpe

Cotton shortage, wool requisitioned for military clothing and blankets, silk only textile not imported and was also channeled into war good.

National guidelines for dress –  the committee for reform of national dress, from ministries of army, commerce, agriculture and imperial household affairs.

Outline for Implementing Simplified Wartime Clothing Habits. Greater regulation of styles and created a new mode know as “reformed western dress”  Monpe only garment generally adapted.

1942 High fashion non-existent due to shortages.

IMG_2269

boy’s summer kimono “running soldiers” 1940’s.

Design and War: Kimono as “Parlor Performance” Propaganda.

Japans military might is projected toward Korea and China.

IMG_2271

Furoshiki “war in china”  Kimono fabric 1930’s.

Children’s Kimono’s appeal to the child as well as the adults who see them and require less material than an adults Kimono.

Modern design in clothing was manifested in two ways during wartime:  the kimono with war-promoting designs and the designs for standardized clothing.  Civilian uniforms for men (kokuminfuku) and women (hyojunfuku) represent propaganda on a grander scale because they were sanctioned and promoted by the government.

Principe motifs of the Kimono:

Armaments (battleships, airplanes, tanks, sabers, bayonets, bombs, artillery)

IMG_2273

The national flag, military flags, army and navy badges, golden kite medal

IMG_2279

Battlefield scenes

IMG_2275

Victory celebrations

Manchukuo themes

Axis-Alliance celebration

IMG_2281

Rich nation, strong army and industrial development

IMG_2277

Man’s Nagujuban, 1939-41

Military deities

 

Keeping up on the home front morale: beauty and duty in wartime Britain

“the peoples war”

Austerity and appearances – downplay the instabilities and paradoxes thrown up by the changing definition of a woman.    Show solidarity by adopting a more austere look.

Fashion-on-the-ration-594691

It’s a women’s duty to keep themselves looking their best.  “Looking good” lifts spirits.

Utility clothing scheme: state regulated program for the production, pricing, and rational of clothes, entitled everyone to basic but limited amounts of clothing at fair prices through ha coupon system of payment.

IMG_2287

Utility Suit gray harringbone wool. Britain 1942

tumblr_inline_nil5xdQG4V1rgbe8v

Utility clothing was regarded as fashionable as clothing produced outside the systems looked like that produced with in.

Making do and Making over

42cheery2

4d653eba86584876135894bea1aa4cd3

IMG_2289

Berketex Utility range of dresses. Britain 1942

Beauty a duty – for women who joined the women’s services between 1939-1945.

IMG_2293

 

Make up

BH0904

Stockings

88683_54_news_hub_84642_588x448

Hair

IMG_2292

IMG_2297

Propaganda prints

blog-prop11

IMG_2295

Dress Fabric and jacket. Britain 1940

IMG_2340

IMG_2342

IMG_2344

London Squares: the scarves of wartime Britain.

 6ad62a28fe7d005675ae094fb4605635

 

Showing the colors of America:

Fashion Center shifts to US.

Uncle Sam assumed roll of fashion designer.

ced7334aec7c3a803f79016acca2289b

Sweeping restrictions aim to save 15% of the yardage now used in women’s and girl’s apparel.  Restricted hems and belts. Dresses shorter and tighter.  Men’s suits made without vests and pockets. Wool, metal zippers, rubber, leather (cork wedges)

nylon

two-toned clothing, make with patched together clothing

Production of Hemp is encouraged.

Nylon was missed, women stood in line for hours.

Feed sack fabric

1-4

feedsack_WWII_

Feed-Sack-dresses

IMG_2299

 

Propaganda Textiles 

IMG_2305

Aeroplane Kimono 1930’s

IMG_2306

Kimono and Obi 1930’s

IMG_2309

Modern Military, 1930’s

IMG_2311

Childs Vest, Printed muslin. 1930’s.

IMG_2315

woman’s haori. 1930’s

IMG_2318

Boy’s Kimono 1938-40

IMG_2319

Military Man Kimono 1930’s

IMG_2321

Obi.  Marching soldiers. 1930’s

IMG_2323

Baby’s haori. “fighting machines” 1930’s.

IMG_2333

Girls Naregi.  1941

IMG_2336

boy’s haori. 1940’s

IMG_2338

boys haori. 1940’s.

Scarves – United States

IMG_2327

IMG_2329

IMG_2331

IMG_2346

Victory Yardage 1940’s.

Our Kimono Mind: Reflections on “Japanese Design: A survey sense 1950”

Arguments in the article:

Could not imagine the contemporary phenomenon of oversizing in apparel from sportswear to tailored styles without the Japanese role in Western dress.

would not have achieved the relative deconstruction of tailored clothing in menswear and womenswear without the example of Japanese dress.

This is not to say that Kenzo, Kawakubo, Miyake, and others cannot employ tailoring to a purpose, but the ethos of their clothing is about the piling on of layers, a construction of continuous tissues on the body.

Kawakubo’s 1982-3 ‘lace’ sweater with its fragile, moth eaten character is, of course, indicative of this economic equivocation, so clearly invoking the most rarefied.

T.167-1985; T.167A-1985 Hand knitted 'lace' sweater over a jersey top and cotton jersey skirt with irregular horizontal pleats Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Paris 1982

T.167-1985; T.167A-1985
Hand knitted ‘lace’ sweater over a jersey top and cotton jersey skirt with irregular horizontal pleats
Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Paris 1982

The West assumes that ‘street’ and couture are antipodes; Japanese design begins with no such assumption and Japanese fashion proceeds from no such dialectic. Rather, we realize a reconciliation and resolution between social and economic extremes. Issey Miyake’s recent pleats are a utopian clothing of broad outreach and of social reformation, not a specialized fashion for an aristocracy or style elite.

irving_penn_26

It is impossible to describe and analyze late twentieth-century fashion in Europe and America without taking account of the substantive contribution of Japanese design

1972, Kenzo told Bernadine Morris of the New York Times, ‘Fashion is not for the few-it is for all the people’.

sjcf_01_img0211

in the West relinquish only reluctantly our ancient regime of the couture’s hegemony and of fashion’s status, though fashion’s cultural status in the West is ironically lower than elsewhere because of our culture’s particular repudiation of women and of the discourse of the body

in the final third of the century, Western fashion struggled to find a new sign system that recognized fashion as a quotidian phenomenon more than as a function of an elitist couture, that observed richness in the propagation of imagery and cognate advertising, and that appreciated invention of both product and the application of garment artefacts to styling.

As an intellectual system, Western dress yearned for a new universal. Why did Japanese designers offer the best new options from the 197os to the 199os? Japanese design offers the extant alternative that reconciles kimono ceremony and applied use for dress.

Japan offered an aesthetic and practical possibility beyond conventional Western tailoring.  In the West as in every culture, fashion has traditionally been associated with special occasions, whether collective ceremonies or individually fulfilled rites of passage. But the West had also associated dress with times of the day and occasions specific to daily life, thus a differentiated outfit for riding, separate apparel for other sports, particular dress for cocktails and early evening, and distinctive dress for the evening. This stratified dress-with its dogmatic coding-was in degeneration by the 196os due to changing social standards, but its vestiges remained. When the West sought an apparel that was less specific to place and function, Japanese design again offered a perfect, beckoning example. Western fashion was bound to a principle of differentiations by gender, class, value, and even specific occasion. Fashion in our time has instead demanded fashion that is detached from specific purpose to serve many options and existing in a free realm of intellectual and aesthetic postulation. Japan has pro- vided the model of adaptability that has been required for functions of dress and for reasons of modern simplicity in life.

Japanese designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, and Kansai Yamamoto offer a wholly different view of clothing. The emotional and spiritual presence of the clothing takes no regard for the time of day, but only for the emotional and intellectual position of the designer and thereby the wearer.

54ae50e8ef869_-_elle-kansai-yamamoto-david-bowie-2-de

hade, displaying the boisterous, un mitigated joyousness and celebration of life; others are of jinmi quietude and implied spiritualism just as much on the basis of personal proclivity and aesthetic, designing for the contemplative, almost introspective view of life

Both traditional and contemporary Japanese fashion has approached the human body differently than Western dress. Tailoring and the body penum- bra or body-shaping silhouette have been para- mount in Western culture, whereas layered cushioning and abstract shaping have been more characteristic of Japanese design, as evident in Issey Miyake’s work.8 Even today Western culture tends to hang clothing; Japanese culture tends to fold clothing. The erotic and feminine ideal of Western dress simulates the body, whereas the wrapping, geo- metric abstract, and cloaking of Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo have functioned in a completely opposite way.

Hanae Mori has brought the most refined crafts in subtly colored fields of beadwork and embroidery, as from ancient craft, to the modern vocabulary of dress. Issey Miyake has commanded virtuoso skills of textiles, dyeing, and decoration to the untailored garment.

conspicuous return of black to fashion in the 198os and 199os-eschewed since its last revival in Beat Generation black of the 195os-in the West has been chiefly sponsored by Japanese designers, especially Kawakubo. Its jimi spirit is justified in the history of black attire in the West, but fashion black of the contemporary era is primarily inspired by Japanese design.

Industrial Revolution

OTL_Europe_Industrial_Revolution_Map

The Railroad = Industrial growth in USA

RR1860

1891 counties

Carl Marx on Labor

“A Devil in Petticoats” and Just Cause: Patterns of Punishment in Two New England Textile Factories

Punishment has been ingrained in the social structure of the factory from the very beginning because the coordination of a complex division of labor entails exercise of authority, and where orders are given there is a potential for disobedience.

While studies on motivation of factory labor have focused predominantly on the use of rewards to elicit effort, the rewards of wage labor have never sufficed, without a backup system of punishment.

Hamilton Manufacturing Company 5 in Lowell for the period 1826-1838

105l

The machine process requires rigid discipline, which makes itself felt in “schedules of time, place and circumstance” requiring “conformity to the canon of accurate quantitative measurement.”

The separation of home and work-place has served, especially since the abatement of child labor, to conceal factory routine from young people until they pass through the employment office to their first job.

“Punctuality, calculability, exactness are forced upon life by the complexity and extension of metropolitan existence,” as Georg Simmel argued. Parental concern for jobs, paychecks, and the vagaries of the labor market are communicated to children, but in many ways the world within the factory gates remains a mystery.

After changes with contradictory consequences are taken into account, what remains is the continuing problem of synchronizing humans and machines in hierarchic work organizations.

The Hamilton Manufacturing Company, one of the famous Lowell boarding house mills, was incorporated in 1825, and production at the first of three mills in the corporation began in May of the following year. The earliest payroll book documents a strong pre- occupation with the validation of newly-claimed authority through punitive controls. By the end of March 1827, 190 employees were at work in the new factory, yet already during the first ten months of operations there had been 119 separations from the labor force:

“regular notice” (two weeks’ notice) 42 (35.3%)

“short notice,” no notice, sickness  43 (36.1%)

“husband came for her,” etc. discharges 34 (28.6%)

One discharge entry bore the notation “overseer didn’t like.” expressing dissatisfaction over wages, hysteria and levity (!) were also cited as reasons for dismissal. (Surely if laughter is a defense against adversity, being fired from the mill for “levity” is an outrage)

While in later records the primary concern is for productivity and workmanship, during the first faltering steps of factory production, management seemed most interested in asserting dominance

Moral Police:

No distinction was made between what workers did on company time and what they did on their own. Being “reported” was grounds for dismissal even if the report had no bearing on work performance.

Lowell boarding house mills, the ten p.m. curfew and similar restrictions on personal behavior were an intrinsic part of the company rules with as much force as rules for heeding the starting bell or keeping looms clean.

No evidence that the 1837 dismissal of Mary Moses and Lucy Richardson for dancing in the spinning room of Mill A was connected with any loss of production. It is safe to infer that this incident flew in the face of the puritanical moral code advocated by the management and, as such, was defined as detrimental to the order and discipline of the mill.

Weavers and Watchmen:

275 discharges in the record having a plausible link to poor work performance, 176 (64 per cent) were against weavers.

The explanation of why weavers are more prone to dismissal on work-related charges has to do with the relative difficulty and complexity of weaving com- pared to other mill jobs. When more things can go wrong with a job, it is probable that there will be more disciplinary action in- volving faulty work than in classifications that are simpler and more fool-proof. It may be a corollary of Murphy’s Law that if something can go wrong it will be punished, or more precisely, the greater the probability of mistakes in a work classification, the greater the expected incidence of “bad work” penalties.Screen Shot 2016-05-03 at 9.00.21 AM

Lest anyone think this a frivolous reason to quit, both these weavers averaged earnings of fifty-nine cents per day during the pay period ending April 18, 1835, and the deduction represented about three hours’ work for one, and two for the other. Overall, the workers against whom the 108 recorded fines were assessed averaged daily earnings of sixty cents, while the mean fine was eleven cents. For an estimated twelve-hour workday, that meant a loss of 2.2 hours in wages. This was no trivial loss, all the more so since the deduction was not accompanied by a -corresponding reduction of time and effort inputs by the penalized workers.

Absenteeism and Debt

In 1836, Betsy Pierce was discharged on the accusation that she had “pretended sickness to go to meeting.” Two years later, Charity West met a similar fate for “staying out on pretence of sickness.” The claim of sickness to validate absence from work and managerial rejection of that claim (a familiar confrontation in modem industry) is thus documented early on in American industrial practice.

Combinations, Turn outs and Blacklists

Early entrepreneurs treated unionism as a conspiracy to be rooted out. In March 1830, Dorothy Wyman was discharged from the winding room at Hamilton on the allegation that she had “combined to raise wages.”

Work stoppages and other expressions of discontent often preceded formal unionization, and there is evidence of suppression through discharge.

There is evidence of strikers from other Lowell mills being reported through the blacklist and quickly losing their jobs at Hamilton. The efficiency of this employer’s communications network was at its peak when Alice Steaves was hired as a weaver in Mill C on March 4, 1837, and was discharged on the same day for having participated in a strike at the Merrimack Manufacturing Company. For ten workers hired at Hamilton in this period and subsequently reported through the blacklist as turn outs from other companies, the median survival time between being hired and fired was 7.5 days.Deviant Behavior

Hysteria as grounds for discharge was cited from the first pay- roll records. Other labels bestowed by the mill diagnosticians on unwanted employees included: “non composmentis,” “mad,” and “crazy.” Another was deemed unsuitable because of “religious frenzy.” These designations seem to be attempts at imputing causes for unacceptable behavior, while the more straightforward charge of “not conforming to the rules” is simply descriptive.

The Defarge Knitting Mill, 1971-1972  Woonsocket RI

0000-2-9427-map

After they have passed through a probationary period, employees of the Defarge Knitting Mill are subject to discharge or other penal- ties only for “good and sufficient cause.” Appeals against such punishment can be processed through a grievance procedure culminating in arbitration.

During the period of January 1, 1971 through December 31, 1972, there were 125 disciplinary penalties for cause

Screen Shot 2016-05-03 at 9.10.51 AM

Charges linked directly to poor work performance and absenteeism accounted for 49 penalties each. Nearly four out of five cases thus involved one of these areas of noncompliance

Screen Shot 2016-05-03 at 9.11.33 AM

Absenteeism has been described as a kind of individual strike,27 and as such it may be perceived as aggression against authority.

At the Defarge Mill, forty-nine of the recorded penalties (thirty- six reprimands, twelve suspensions, and one discharge) were connected with poor work performance. Four of the reprimands referred to shortfalls below production standards, while the remainder dealt in large measure with defects in the quality of the product.These penalties were not randomly distributed among the workers, but fell predominantly upon workers in the knitting department.

Screen Shot 2016-05-03 at 9.13.31 AM

While discharges for cause were few at Defarge, and the constraints of a collective bargaining agreement protect the worker under the jurisdiction of the union from arbitrary or capricious treatment, there is one set of data, not previously alluded to, which puts supposedly dramatic advances in industrial justice into a some- what different light. While public law and contract at Defarge introduce an element of due process that the Hamilton workers could not imagine in their wildest dreams, there is a catch.  That can best be illuminated by examining what happens during the probationary period.

“No worker shall be discharged or disciplined without good and sufficient cause, except during his trial period, during which period the employer may discharge or discipline at will . . . without regard to cause”

legal requirement that employers bargain with unions chosen by their employees is accepted with such equanimity in the United States today.  Written in 1976, we are in a much different place today.

“Peacefully Working to Conquer the World:” The Singer Manufacturing Company in Foreign Markets, 1854-1889

With typical Yankee push, the American sewing machine of the 1850’s was publicized and quickly accepted as the great American labor-saving machine which people around the world could use for fun or profit. The industry was in the vanguard of America’s commercial and technological thrust into the world market.

The sewing machine industry owed its inception in the early 1850’s to a series of partnerships between inventors and capitalists. The business partnership of Isaac Merrit Singer and Edward Clark brought together a profligate whose natural mechanical genius enabled him not only to spot defects in existing machines, but to correct and improve upon their action.

Out of this thicket of litigation among the sewing machine companies came the Albany agreement of October 24, 1856, America’s first patent pool

At the London Crystal Palace in 1853, four American machines were exhibited and publicly demonstrated. Two were Singers, which were very noisy in operation, and two were made by Wheeler & Wilson, which drew “the greatest number of admirers.”

77012-gleason27spictorial9

sewing-machine-1853-granger

Undaunted by this experience, Singer moved to secure patents in France and England on recent improvements. Charles Louis Fleischmann, a patent agent living in Paris, was hired to handle the French negotiations. The company was successful in both countries in February 1854.

The Civil War strengthened the sewing machine industry’s concern for foreign markets. In their attempt to recoup the “immense sums” lost in shipments and consignments to the South, the northern sewing machine manufacturers turned with renewed interest to overseas markets. The rising premium on foreign gold also encouraged such sales. These two developments combined to prompt manufacturers to export to foreign countries “to many fold greater extent than they had ever done before, or could have done but for the war.” To better supply this market, the Americans established depots, sales rooms, and agencies in Europe. These investments were made despite the increased American tariff on pig iron (a prime material used in the machine), Howe’s private tariff ($1.00) on all machines exported, and “the abnormal state of exchange.”

elias_howe_advert_sewalot_1871

At an informal meeting on June 6, 1863, the partnership between Isaac Singer and Edward Clark was dissolved. Incorporation proceedings were then initiated by Clark. Four employees from the factory and office were offered shares in the reorganized operation and became, along with Clark and Singer, the new board of trustees.

The Singer company made two major decisions in its foreign business between 1864 and 1867: the appointment of two general agents for Great Britain and Europe, and the construction of an assembly plant in Glasgow, Scotland. These decisions reinforced the underlying situation: the company’s exports were in 1864 over 40 per cent of total production.

Singer Sewing Machine Factory Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland

Singer Sewing Machine Factory Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland

gallery__2._view_of_singer_factory_c.1895

An American trade journal reported in 1880 that of the five American sewing machine companies active in Great Britain, Singer had “made the greatest effort to perfect an organization.” This was true, but it discounted the real and persistent difficulties facing the management. Woodruff frequently posed the problem of how to push sales, maintain a large sales force, and keep down the cost of selling. His own answer was the “economic consolidation of our organization, but it is not easy to see just how it is to be done.

It was not easy to find honest men for this type of work. The “great problem” was “how to get better men and sell more sewing machines at less cost.” The company’s increasing use of its own sales personnel and its slow phasing out of consignment or purchasing agents, were a part of its effort to rationalize the marketing techniques of the sewing machine trade. The specialization of office and field functions, and the provisions for control, were illustrative of the process of centralization of routine work and the decentralization of decision making within specialized areas. The optimum goal was to provide for making enough low-level operational decisions to utilize personal initiative for the benefit of the firm while maintaining intact central office control.

In 1867 the Singer Company established its first factory in Europe. This move was a milestone in the overseas commercial expansion of American business. The company was not the first to build a factory in Europe, but it was one of the earliest (and perhaps the best known) American firm whose foreign operations had by the end of the American civil war reached a level where failure to get closer to the markets would have resulted in Singer’s diminution through the slow attrition of competition.

maxresdefault

The construction of a foundry in Austria in 1883 illuminates the company’s desire to circumvent tariff barriers

During these post-bellum decades of seeking foreign markets, the Singer Company and possibly other firms did not solicit the aid of the American government nor its diplomatic personnel. Once a commercial foothold was established in Europe by its own efforts, both the agents and the New York office avoided official contacts except as they dealt with the company’s legal status or trade name.

Europe was clearly aware of the power and the threat of the early firms like Singer during the 1870’s and 1880’s. Singer’s expansion was part of an increasing American push into the world market. American machinery and hardware, including pianos, steam engines, and sewing machines, reported one journal in 1871, “have now a lasting reputation established.” A good deal of such talk and analysis was exaggerated, but it did bespeak a growing economic nationalism and a desire to cease being a colony of European industry.

advertisement-for-singer-sewing-machines-to-be-bought-on-credit-system-a6mc6j

The sewing machine was in the vanguard of this American commercial and technological penetration of the world market. At the Vienna Exhibition of 1873, for example, sewing machines were displayed in one of the largest exhibits. There were about fifty European manufacturers represented (of which twenty-nine were German) but all imitated the American machines of Howe, Singer, and Wheeler & Wilson.

Paris1855Nähmaschine600

In the 1880’s, American sewing machine exports rose steadily from 12 per cent of all iron and steel-manufactured exports in 1881 to 16 per cent in 1885.67 These exports clearly affected Great Britain and Europe. Not only did English competitors adopt American business methods, but the trade “which has always been more or less American in character, is rapidly being completely Americanized.

The Triangle Fire: Tragedy, Trial, and Triumph

The 1911 Triangle Shirt Waist Factory Fire 

c0152d97ce9f69f784e42bed75868ffa

International Ladies Garment Workers Union  ILGWU

5279754922_326f7d8211_z

Pins and Needles 

l1611032728

3-2

Southern Textile Mill Villages on the Eve of World War II: The Courtenay Mill of South Carolina

The textile mill villages of the South were examples of company towns.

Courtenay Textile Mill of Newry, South Carolina.  Located in the rolling Appalachian foothills in the northwestern corner of the state, Newry is representative of a typical rural mill village of the southern Piedmont.  Southern mills overtook the traditional industry of New England by the start of the 1930s.

Newry+mill

Whether the mill was urban or rural, the village served the same purpose: to attract a labor force to the mill from the predominately agricultural economy. Before 1900, the mills absorbed surplus local labor caused by declining prices for the staple cotton crop. But after the turn of the century, the supply of such farmers was depleted, and mill owners were pressed to find alternative sources. Brief thoughts of using foreign immigrants or black labor were abandoned when the Appalachian mountain folk were brought to the mills by hired labor recruiters.

The rapid industrialization of the Piedmont led to many social problems and growing calls for regulation. The reform movements of the Progressive Era generated the first external restraints on the labor force available to the mills, although the enactment of laws on child labor, minimal schooling, and sixty-hour work weeks often meant little through lack of enforcement.

Great Depression spawned the now familiar forty-hour work week, overtime pay, minimum wages, and social security.The only major upheaval of the labor market that southern mill owners successfully avoided was the growth of unionism.

The labor pool of the mill no longer consisted of poor farmers and uneducated mountain folk attracted from outside the village, but rather members of a rapidly growing mill class who had been raised in the mills. The mill village was no longer crucial for obtaining labor because the labor force was already there. The first wave of village housing sales began during the 1930s, and they resumed in even greater numbers once temporary wartime labor shortages passed.

paternalistic view that the mill town, complete with store, church, school, nurse, activity director, and emphasis on family life, was a voluntary cost borne by mill owners for the benefit and welfare of their employee.

company town is a blatant attempt to create employee dependence

human capital approach to the mill village system:

The workers were unprepared for the improvements possible in their new urban life. It was the mission of the owners,as they saw it, to show their employees how to raise their standard of living.

newry

Once monopsony power has been developed, the company town can be used to lower wages. Similarly, the welfare activities of a mill town were in fact social exploitation designed to manipulate the views of the operatives to management’s advantag

Mill owners invested in the mill village, its family labor system, and its welfare activities in the anticipation that eventually a core of stable, dependable workers would be created who would acquire additional skill with their accumulated work experience.

white_oak_cotton_mills

tompk35

cannon_mill_housing

2c506c757b07e1f1186253b7adabbbef

FARMCOW

 

Art and Industry: The Language of Modernization in the Production of Fashion

“The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,” Walter Benjamin worried that the “aura” of art was being lost as the masses sought to “overcome the uniqueness of every reality by accepting its reproduction.

Their discussion of art and industry is, by and large, a discussion about capital. Sweated labor has little place in their reflections on the state of (the) art, except insofar as it is further proof of the lowered standards of mass production. The “modernization” that economists and industrialists call for seeks to combine a rationalization of the production process with that “je ne sais quoi” supposed to define French goods. The ambiguities in their discourse show how attempts at synthesizing these concepts imply changing values concerning style and productivity.

The nineteenth-century French term for fashion goods was “nouveaute’s.” The art-industry split was never entirely consummated in the minds of garment industrialists. Manufacturers in the age of mass consumption became concerned with keeping art within their industrial discourse and their vision of production. Even with the advent of increasingly standardized garments, the importance of clothing’s value as a mark of individuality remained crucial to the industry’s representation of itself.

Clothes have generally attracted much more interest for their form than for their fabrication. Studies of costumes and changing styles abound, with little reference to how they are produced. Many fewer works have investigated the industry itself but usually ignored fashion.

Yet the very image of the garment industry, from the nineteenth century to the present, is based on a close link between form and function. Roland Barthes described the three-fold nature of garments as providing “protection, pudeur, parure.” 11 Clothes are functional, fashionable, and provide the figleaf. They cover the body to protect it from the elements,12 and they also cover the body for purposes of modesty, as represented in the Judeo-Christian imagination starting with Adam and Eve. In this respect the covering function has religious and societal implications that are fairly deeply ingrained in our civilization.

The ready-to-wear revolution of the nineteenth century and the growth of clothing as a widely distributed mass consumer item by the end of the century came about through the combined effects of a democratization of demand and of supply.

ready-to-wear transformed clothing “made for somebody” into clothing “made for anybody” and finally into cloth- ing “made for everybody.” Revolution, war, and the changing status of women all contributed to the changing nature of demand. A new organization of work and new technology allowed mass production to “take off.”

The wars that dotted the century also had a crucial part to play in developing the mass production of clothing. Orders for uniforms stimulated demand, but they also encouraged a reorganization of the production process that spread from military to civilian workshops. The mass measurement of soldiers put the concept of standardized sizes into wide use as a certain pattern to body shapes began to emerge.’ The new science of anthropometrics led to increasing experimentation with patterns, so that garments could now be made for anonymous bodies, according to a limited set of predetermined sizes. The real clothing revolution of the nineteenth century was serial production.

By the end of the nineteenth century, the growth of an industrious middle class of female employees and shop- keepers with a little more disposable income and more clothing needs fed the growing demand for women’s ready-made goods. A change in styles accompanied the transfer of technique. A certain masculinization of feminine styles in the late nineteenth century encouraged the transfer of ready-made methods to women’s wear.

Two particular innovations in the organization of work marked the first half of the nineteenth century: an increased division of labor and the production of garments in the absence of known, measurable customer.

The sewing machine raised productivity by encouraging a still greater division of labor and by increasing the number of stitches per minute. A first version of the sewing machine produced by Barthelemy Thimonnier in 1830 was never a commercial success and drew the ire of perhaps the only French Luddites, who broke into a military workshop using the machines in 1831 and threatened to destroy them.23 It was not until Singer-the “Napoleon of the sewing machine,” as he has been called in France-further perfected and mass-marketed the machines in the 1850s that the democratization of production took off.

Yet, as the made-to-measure crowd declined, the function of the custom tailor in the art-industry debate was taken over by the new haute couturiers. Haute couture (for women, not yet for men) emerged concomitant with the development of women’s ready- to-wear as a bastion of art-in-clothing. The art-industry dichotomy thus became crystallized at the end of the nineteenth century in this distinction between haute couture and ready-to-wear, and the haute couturiers became the inheritors and embellishers of the master tailors’ status and language.

Starting with Charles Worth, men became the new professionals of the upper end of the trade in women’s clothing, in spite of the fact that for the past two centuries, couturieres had per- formed the task of clothing the grandes dames. And just as the term tailor had been feminized, the term couturiere, previously designating the (female) makers of female clothing, became masculinized. The attributes of art were assigned accordingly to the new couturiers.

Confronting the dilemma between the unique and the reproducible, French industrialists and industry observers began to admit, with somewhat bitter resignation, that elegance was no longer enough to ensure sufficient sales.

American woman worker was perhaps not quite as successful as her husband in imitating her bourgeois counterpart, but he admitted that perhaps a female eye might have picked up the more subtle, American class distinctions. Citing an “indiscrete” corset survey and commenting that he himself had seen little under- wear on outdoor laundry lines, the wily investigator speculated that American class differences might not be visible on a walk through the park.

Impressed with the American democracy apparent in outerwear if not underwear, Levasseur was a great enthusiast for American manufacturing methods: faster, cheaper, producing greater quantities.

The standardization of clothing manufacture was thus not simply a result of poor taste but of the democratic process itself.

 

 

 

 

 

We are pleased to announce that Academic Affairs has set an ambitious goal to award and disburse as many Cal State LA scholarships as possible before the start of the fall semester!  This will allow the campus to honor our talented students and provide them with needed funds before classes begin.  It will also allow us to thank our donors in a timely manner and encourage them to continue to support our deserving students and programs.

 

Cal State LA has over 400 scholarship opportunities to support the educational goals of our students.  You can browse the diversity of scholarships available on our Cal State LA Scholarships Application site.  The scholarships are made available through the generosity of our University donors, alumni, and friends.  And remember, these scholarship opportunities are in addition to the various federal, state, and outside agency financial aid programs!

 

When do students apply and what is the deadline?

•          Students can begin applying on April 29, 2016

•          Students must complete their online application except for the submission of the letter of reference no later than May 31, 2016.

•          The person submitting the letter of reference must do so no later than June 7, 2016

 

For more information about the Scholarship application process, please visit the scholarships page of the Center for Student Financial Aid & Scholarships website.   

 

The History of Underclothes. C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington (through the British and a bit of French perspective)

Functions:

  1. protect the body from cold
  2. to support the shape of the costume
  3. for cleanliness
  4. erotic use of underclothing
  5. class distinction

materials: Linen, cotton, woolen petticoats, silk for the leisure classes.
construction:  hand made, poor fit, better weaving, knitting closer fit.
methods of fastening: strings, ribbons, buttons, studs, snaps, hooks and eyes seldom used.

 

Medieval Period: protect garment from dirt and body from harsh fabrics.
Men:

the shirt  of all the undergarments worn by either sex this is the one which, if not the most ancient, has certainly preserved longer than any other.  Until a hundred years ago it was always worn next to the skin. made of wool and linen.
IMG_2184

the drawers

saxon word – breechers or braies.  denoted the garment used to conceal the sexual region.  confusion for outer and inner.  second half of 12th century braies became and undergarment.
c5f2277818900ec823db6a4aaa8bce75

Women
the smock (chemise)  flowing, ankle length garment with long straight sleeves and small round neck

IMG_2172

 

the stays

uncertain if women worn something in the nature of a corset.  singular figure suggests the possibility.

IMG_2174

 

1485-1625 

New fashion for slashing men’s out clothes exposed the fine quality of what lay beneath, and immediately brought the shirt itself, to greater attention. The edge of the shirt was ruffled at the neck, a decoration which soon developed into a separate accessory. For women, underclothing took on  the new function of supporting the growing size and shape of the skirt.

Men

the shirt: made of cambric or holland.  Very full, low necks, full sleeves into narrow bands at wrist.  Embroidery.

IMG_2176

the ruff: put on separately from shirt and fastened by band strings. Ruffs were made of cambric, holland, lawn and the finest cloth that could be got. Embroidered with silk and edged with lace.

IMG_2178

1533 sumptuary law: no one under the rank of knight might wear “plaited shirts or shirts garnished with silk, gold or silver”  Only undergarment which obtained the honour of an Act of Parliament.

the waistcoat: worn under the doublet.  Waist-length with our without sleeves, usually quilted or bombasted.  “vest” Made of velvet, silk, or linen and often embroidered.

Screen Shot 2016-04-26 at 1.07.04 PM

1700 waistcoat

the drawers: corresponded to modern pants, and were know as trousers or strosssers.  They were knee or ankle length, cut on the cross (bias) to give a close fit.

the night clothes: night shirts, caps

url

Women

The Chemise: collar developed and opened at the top of the gown in a frilled border, becoming often a high collar, splayed open, and loosely tied at the neck with strings.  Made of cambric, holland and silk used occasionally.  Embroidery was common. It was acceptable compliment for courtier to present Queen Elizabeth with elaborate specimens of this garment. They were heavily perfumed, to cover smell of bodies and wood ash.

Chemise1

lady-in-black-early1520-1550s

the wasitcoat. like the mans was slipped over the head and resembled a vest.  Materials were flannel, velvet, damask, sarcenet and linen.  Enriched with “wrought work” during Elizabeth’s reign.

the corset.  underbodice made of two parts called “a pair of bodies”, stiffened with busks of wood or whalebone inserted into casings in the “bodies” and tied there by “busk points”

1500

the petticoat.  women of England wore three cloth gowns for petticoats one over the other.

the farthingale.  petticoat reinforced by a series of graduated hoops of cane, whalebone, or wire.  Shape of a cone, closely resembling that of the Victorian cage-crinoline.

7019a63fdbde9affccb4d6eb43ba7ac3

the drawers.  Introduced by Catharine de Medici.  silk or linen breeches.

the nightclothes.  smocks, embroidery, openwork, were worn by all women of social pretension.  Heavily perfumed.

 

1626-1710

Romantic period, ceased being merely utilitarian in function, there were being exploited to indicate class distinction and sex attraction.   Antagonism to Puritanism which persistently disapproved of the display of underclothes for erotic purposes though it had no objection to class distinction in costume.

Men

the day-shirt.  Shirt was conspicuously displayed.  Its neckband was narrow; to it the material was gathered, with a short centre-opening in front, edged with lace or a linen frill.  Opening was tied at the neck with strings and buttoned.  Sleeves were full and were caught in the wrist with ribbon ties. Materials were fine holland, linen, lace, frieze holland and course linen called lockeram.

IMG_2186

The half shirt.  short under shirt about hip length, made of flannel in winter and linen in summer.

the drawers.  two types.  silk trunks 13″ long, cut full and square: they are fastened with ribbons in front, have a small slit behind, and are tied at the back.  second type consists of long drawers with stirrups, a band which passed under the instep to prevent the garment from slipping up the leg.

the nightclothes.  fine gentleman was an elaborate as the day-shirt, often with lace insertion at the neck and down the sides of the sleeves with ruffles at the wrist.  Sleeves were very full, collar laid flat.

 

Women

the chemise or Smock.  made of holland and heavily perfumed. plain except for the frill, sometimes edged with lace, at the neck and sleeves.  Neck line was cut low, with a short V opening in front where it was tied by means of a threaded draw-strings.

IMG_2188

the corset.  heavily boned, long bust in front and was laced up behind.

the petticoats. farthingale ceased to be fashionable about 1625, and as the skirt of the gown then became trained and flowing it would doubtless have required a number of under-petticoats to support it.   Little direct evidence.

the bustle.1690 overskirt became bunched up at the back, natural the bustle returned.

the waistcoat.  worn under the garment, maybe even next to the skin.

the drawers.  French women wore, but no evidence English women wore

the nightclothes.  hight ranks lavishly trimmed with lace.

the pocket.  detachable, in shape of narrow bag with a centre slit, fastened round the waist under the petticoats.

tumblr_inline_o4mm6wAtIA1rz7szl_500

 

1711-1790 

The whole of costume at this period was dominated by the hoop, which gave women’s skirt a special importance and underclothes a peculiar significance.

We associate this fashion with it’s predecessor, the farthingale of the 16th and 17th centuries, and with the Victorian crinoline which followed it a century later.  Although these types has primary function of expressing class distinction, their erotic associations differed.  As Englishwomen did not wear drawers until the 19th century, the thight were bare beneath the petticoats, so that, with the farthingale and the hoop, accidental exposures must happened.   The men in this period are strangely happy.  1712 – send ladies sky high on swings.

17th century the erotic center of attention was the breasts.   1710 erotic zone shifts to the legs when the hoop becomes fashionable.

Men

the shirt.  shape remained unchanged, bottom cut square.  Back flap slightly longer than the back.  1710 the hanging cravat was commonly dispensed with so that the jabot or frilled border of the central opening becoming more elaborate, embroidered and exposed.   Neckband became higher and developed into a collar attached to the shirt, though concealed by the neckcloth.   The sleeves were voluminous, with carefully pressed pleats along the outer side.

IMG_2190

the drawers.  short, tied in at the knees, closed by a string fastening round the waist.

the nightclothes.  linen nightshirt resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in the cut.

the artificial calves.  Introduced by the Macaronis, from 1770 on.  purpose to accentuate the shapeliness of the male calf of the leg.

IMG_2192

Women

the chemise.  reached just below the knees.  Top of the garment was edged with lace and threaded with a draw-string, scarcely on the shoulders and followed the line of the bodice.  full sleeves, gathered at the top, with lace frill.

IMG_2194

 

habit-shirts. worn during riding, similar to mens costume, with ruffled jabot.

IMG_2197

the corset.  worn from childhood. lower margin cut into tabs to fit over the hips.

IMG_2198

IMG_2201

the hooped petticoat.  is made to keep men at a distance.

Panniers-Clothing

56227a4851c39b67ef037b7522473407

the bustle.  large roll or pad, tapering at the ends and tied around the waist.

bum1

the under petticoat. narrow and tubular under skirt which did not reach the small of the leg.

petticoat-scan

nightclothes.  resembled the day-chemise except for being longer.  on the head was worn a night cap.

 

1791-1820

Has the historian pieces together the fragmentary finds of knowledge, they always remain conscious of the gaps in the story as well as of the conflicting accounts from which it is composed.

The fashion magazine becomes a new source of information.

Last quarter of the 18th century saw the introduction to two important changes:

  1. Prudery. Regards underwear in a more serious manner.
  2. Personal cleanness.  Introduced by the Macaronis 1770’s.  “no perfumes, very fine linen and country washing”

Men

the shirt: Shirt-front became completely concealed under the immense wrapping of the voluminous neckcloth.  Frill was omitted.  Collar 5-6″ high was no longer visible.  Bottom of the shirt was cut square until 1850.  Evidence of machine stitching indicates a date after 1860, but many shirts continued to be sewn by hand.

IMG_2202

the drawers.  two lengths, short when worn under breeches and “smallclothes; long when worn under pantaloons and trousers.

IMG_2204

the braces.  useful addition added shortly before 1800. used to hold tight breeches.  working class wore loose fitting clothing and called the braces, gallows.

the corset.  Dandy’s frequently wore this aid to beauty.   “prinny has left off his stays and his belly now hangs over his knees.

cartoon3

the nightclothes. no important change.

the underwaistcoat.  made with stockenette with wool lining, and fastened down front by dorest  thread buttons.  sleeves have gap under the armpits and narrow wristband with one button.

Women
Classical style of dress, accompanied by an extensive shedding of superfluous undergarments.   In the English spirit of moderation kept in check “near nudity’ movement except for a daring few.  For a few years stays were discarded by the “fashionables’, but returned early in the new century.

the chemise.  the old term “shift” has now become unfashionable.  The garment was made of cotton or linen, straight and ungathered, the shape being almost oblong.  Knee length, the neck opening was square and edged with a gathered muslin frill.  The short sleeves were set in with a gusset in the armpit.  Bing side, the chemise was often omitted if the dress was narrow.

IMG_2206 (1)

the petticoat.  made of cotton, cambric, linen or sometimes flannel.  was a bodice and skirt, with opened sides to get into the garment.  Cut known as a “low stomacher front”  1807 invisible petticoats, drawers and waistcoats all in one.  woven on a stocking-loom and drawn over the legs so that when walking you obliged to take short, and mincing steps.

05758ddc32c24b6bb63af895736c7bed

the drawers.  1806 come into fashion, similar to men’s, come just below the knee.

IMG_2208

the pantaloons.  1830’s, worn under garments by school girls when doing sports.  went to the mid calf.

the corset.  1794-1800 they were short and not worn universally. Corsettes about 6″ long, and a light buffon tucker of two inches hight, are now the only defensive paraphernalia of our fashionable belles, between the neckline and a apron strings.

the long corset was made jean or buckram, well stiffened with whalebone, extended down to cover the hips, and up wards to push the breasts.  Lower edge has no tabs.  laced up the back.

2006ay0345_blue_corset_back_1864

the short corset was equally rigid, and had back lacing.

362977308a013a23e32dc746a182b64d

“by the newly invented corsets we see, in eight women out of ten, the hips are squeezed into a circumference little fore than the waist; and the bosom shoved up to the chin, making a short of fleshy shelf disgusting to the beholders and certainly most uncomfortable to the wearer.

the divorce corset appeared in 1816.  Used to separate one bosom from the other, using a piece of iron or steel thrusting breasts apart to make the Grecian shape.

f7a0d4b1654611aeedb01cbde4a62f8d

the pregnant stay, 1811 as completely enveloping the body from shoulder to hips and elaborately boned so as to compress and reduce the shape desired the natural prominence of the female figure in a state of fruitfulness.  Lucia belt for every lady expecting to hailed by the endearing title of mother.

tumblr_ml7aa3hyu11rphtnfo1_400

maternity_corset

the bustle.  1810 small rolls sewn into the back of the skirt.  1815 detached in the shape of a long sausage with tapes at each end.

the pockets.  replaced by handbag or reticule commonly called a ridicule.

Bag-English-or-New-England-Early-19th-century-MFA-Boston-64.692

the nightclothes remain the same.

 

1882-1840

Careful regulation of the forms of sex attraction especially in the apparel of the lady.  Increasing social importance of the middle class the spirit of prudery recovered from it’s war-time set back, and became the dominating influence over the costume of men and women.

High priestess of this moral cult was Mrs. Grundy.  eminent fictitious Victorian. 1830 onwards became the convenient censor of social morals and dress.  Refined language; with child, breeding, bowels, stomach.  Psychological “black out” affects parts of the body: legs become limbs, breasts become bosom, the lower back became the region that has baffled the descriptive fashion writer.  underclothes – linen, nether integuments

victorians-Collage

Men

the shirt. Differences between day and evening styles came to be accentuated.  The man of fashion tended more and more to reserve ornamentation for his evening shirt.

“when traveling take three dozen cravats and at least three dozen shirt collars”  “the bosoms of the dress-fronts are invariably composed of lawn or worked cambric which is puckered and furbelowed with a variety of ruffled shapes.

IMG_2210

the drawers. long called trouser drawers, short drawers.

the corset.  continue to be worn

the nightclothes.  plain turned downed collar, buttoned at the neck, the centre opening extending a considerable way down the front.

 

Women

the chemise.  homespun linen, unshaped square neck edged with cambric frill.

the petticoat.  made with attached bodice, in the form of the stomacher-front.  evening petticoat would be ornamented.  the short petticoat IE without a bodice.  cotton, muslin, linen or cambric.  steadily expanding skirts.

4d205bb9e287833c6172cb9f69ba3ebc

the drawers.  end of 1830’s generally accepted by women of any social pretensions.  Garment of class distinction, not usually worn by lower classes.   Silk drawers worn when riding and bathing.

the pantalettes were sometimes worn.

2dcf7da55fed36d962bbc5e531b113f4

the corset.  Tight-lacing became progressively more severe, partly to accentuate the much-admired ‘small waist” and partly as a moral restraint correcting the looser habits of the Regency

1830s-corset-ad

the demi-corset.  8-10 inches tall, with light whalebone were worn when performing domestic work by day.

the bustle.  1833 down stuffed. the diameter of the fashionable ladies at present is about 3 yards. Liable to slip out of place.

0af24a7ec65653de91cab5d367163834

the nightclothes.  no material change.  plain unshaped and has a falling collar with frill, sleeves gathered into a cuff and fastened by a hand-made button.  1818-33 Night cap.

nightcaps-1850s

1841-1856

The art of costume seldom develops at a uniform rate of progress; it exhibits phases of activity interspersed with periods of apparent quiescence.  Such quiet interludes are, illusory, for changes, below the surface maybe ongoing, preparing for an upheaval of the visible landscape.  Outwardly the fashions paused.  It is more important to express class distinction than sex attraction, or rather the evidence of social rank and wealth was a sufficient form of attraction.

Men

the shirt.  fine lines with vertical tucks or embroidery on each side of a narrow central panel.  Shirt exposure depended on the cut of the waist coat. Studs replace buttons, linked with gold chain.  Worn with large cravat.  Morning dress.  buttom cut with a deep curve.  “patent elliptic collar” cut higher in front then behind was introduced.

il_340x270.465170449_e2zl

VictorianMensClothing_1

the drawers.  pink silk ankle length stockinette, 9″ front opening, closed by an overlap of 2″, waistband fastened by 2 pearl buttons.  4″ opening down center back is closed with two silk tapes in the waistband.

965f909ae6a62d533d3adbcb61595171

the under-vest.  Merino vests advertised in 1840’s but no description.  extra warmth.

waistcoats-1834-vest-pattern-1890

the braces.

a205fc560b28551f99da2d2abbe2194e

the nightclothes.  sometimes a shirt and sometimes long.

Women

the chemise.  front square with a falling flap (to cover corset) and short full sleeves gusset in the armpit.  Evening wear, has lace.

1830s-chemise

the petticoat.  number from 4 to 6 were worn according to the season.  only the outermost would be decorative.  Width of petticoats steadily expanding.

 

dcea570abb09a81318334aa2040ab570

the camisole.  New garment, appeared early in 1840’s.  spoken of as “waistcoat” made of long cloth and shaped to the waist by goring, covered the corset, and took the place of the flat front of the old type chemise.

the vest.  merino vests advertised 1847, but young women wouldn’t wear, as it increased their waist size.

the bust improvers.  “lemon bosoms and many other means of creating fictitious charms and improving the work of nature.

the drawers.  keep clean and healthy.  Long cloth drawers, drawers, full maids, ladies riding trousers, very plain.

the corset.  extends to hips.  Day corsets had shoulder strap.

Corsets-Catalog-GraphicsFairy2b1

the bustle.  no longer confined to back, spread around to the sides to help in throwing out the skirt into a domed shape.  “dress-improvers”

the nightclothes.  long cloth, frilled around neck and down front opening and at the cuffs.   1851 – ready made

 

1857 -1866

Ease and comfort must be sacrificed into order to express social rank.   the well-groomed gentleman, corseted and gasping in the tightest of surtouts and pegtop inexpressibles, and the lady, staggering under the burden of multitudinous petticoats, were the prisoners of etiquette.  Outside of confines of society there were the workers in clothes allowing freedom of movement. How simple to barrow from the people the principle that clothes should be the servants of their wearers and not the masters!

Novelty of colored undergarments, shocked the principles of prudery by their liberal exposure.  Chemical dyes introduced in 1860.  Sewing Machine arrives, abundance of ready-made under clothes in exuberant hues.  amount of embroidery is sinful.  a young lady spent a month in hem stitching and embroidering a garment which it was scarcely possible that any other human being, except her laundress would see.

Popular attention concentrated on the crinoline, that ingenious mechanism which in shape and size resembles Albert Hall or the Great Pyramids.  with three or four of these giantesses in a aroom a diminished man could not creep in beyond the door.

crinoline-its-difficulties-and-dangers-c1860-bhrg5e

 

Men

the shirt.  Day. Formal.  enough of shirt front was exposed to reveal the uppermost button or stud.  Large folded cravat.  Upright collar with gap between points. Necktie – band passed round the neck and tied in front either in a bow or knot with hanging ends.

mens-clothing-12

Evening. show expansive front trucked on either side of a centre panel, or the centre panel might be slightly embroidered.

1873_Jan_GofF_crop

country and sporting shirts in a wide variety of styles.

the drawers and undervest.  no reliable account.

the braces.  worked by young ladies and given as gifts to the sterner sex.  at a time when prudery forbade the mention of the garments to which they were destined perhaps they were symbols of secret attachment.

the night shirts.  no change.

Women

the chemise.  shape remains unchanged, 1864, sometimes trimmed with scarlet cotton designs.

the camisole.  continued to be worn over the corset.

the corset.  1860 waist shortened, corset shortens, and taste for colored corsets is rapidly increasing.

e9962cf97dea1db2e77d9ecacc2c0d26

the crinoline.  “artificial crinoline” or “cage petticoat” strengthened by metal or whalebone hoops.

bda9ecfcc4bbb2e0e41060723e377d0c

507dfe35a726693791fcb1e9495f6f1e

main

other petticoats.   worn over the crinoline.  Ornamental, muslin flounce.

the vests.  high in the neck with long or short sleeves of merino or flannel.

the drawers.  trimmed with frills. IN winter color flannel knickerbockers were worn in brilliant scarlet.  confined just below the knee with elastic.

arthurs_home_magazine_open_drawers_3105_1874

the nightdress.  2.5 to 3 inch hem, collar, cuffs and front trimmed with embroidery.  night cap had become old fashion.

6a01156f47abbe970c0133f32137f1970b

the pockets. old detachable pocket in the shape of a bag with a side slide opening was suspended around the waist and under the crinoline.  “safety railway pockets”.

d5d4e50a3de24452729dde2686b89b4d

1867-1882

City Dress: Fashions rigid control.  Country Dress: more comfortable and only worn in the country.

1875 fashion journal: the reason for the present extraordinary luxury in dress is that the surplus million of women are husband-hunting and resort to extra attractions to that end.  The pursuit had to be masked in prudery.  Crinoline no longer decent and was replaced by elaborate concealment made as alluring as possible.  The curves of nature enriched by corset and bustle become prominent features.  “a well-developed bust, a tapering waist, and large hips are the combination of a good figure”

79e4ec185271b8ebdc14942f1eac09bb

 

Men 

the shirt.  day-shirt curved hem about and inch shorter in front than behind, plain white linen, with cuffs and front more starched than formerly.  one to two studs revvealed. Lounge suit.

the vest.  woolen, hip length, narrow neck band and center opening closed by four buttons.

the drawers.  woolen, ankle length, closed by four buttons at the front opening.

the night clothes.  no change.

 

Women

the chemise.  now made of breast seams shaped to the figure so as not to take up more room than possible beneath the stays.

edba667dd4b277e0415de0f710a32565

the drawers.  old form continued 1868 drawers have 5 or 6 tucks at the knee.

the combinations. new style of combining chemise and drawers. the function of the garment is betrayed in the comment: in the present day the object of dress is no longer to conceal but to display the female form divine.

TV105-Combinations

the petticoats.  colors become less aggressive.  white day petticoat should have pleating 9″ deep; for evening goffered flounces are long as the dress.

the crinoline, crinolette and bustle.

images

052458eebf998a1c589572d938e04878

143aabeec1b53f0b9830311a5377146a

dbb3bb495d1c86664fc495cdf7c80b72

the corset.  waist measurements of 17 to 21″ was the fashion.  Glove fitting corset.  1875 long corset and tight-lacing to give the long slender fashionable figure.

81dd55979166c033342009462ebd0944

feac72f0b0ca689db125bed4e4e22fb4

the camisole.  petticoat bodice, shaped to the figure with a heart shaped opening.

the vest.  1875, often of washing silk in various colors, made with long or short sleeves.

the night dress. stand- up collar and a yoke with front being tucked.

 

1883-1896

economic depression which overshadowed most of this period curbed the extravagance of dress.  In a more sober atmosphere was a growing appreciation of hygiene and a demand for sensible underclothing.  Experimentation with Rational Dress.

Both sexes were exploring the joys of outdoor sports, for which appropriate costume was needed.   Innovations in feminine costume, however, were checked by the prudish dread of arousing unwelcome sex interest; a horror of the human body seems to be been the hall-mark of gentility.  Conflicting impulses, some eager for progress, others shocked by the signs of the time, resulting in confusion.

Hygienic rule of wool (to absorb perspiration) next to the skin, and wearing of underclothes that lacked charm.  1880’s every nice-minded girl was trained to be oblivious of a large area of her body, “how awful it must be, to be seen, by one’s husband – in one’s petticoats!

Men

the shirt.  day-shirt for formal wear remained white and starched, with rectangular shaped cuffs.  Side slits with small gussets, curved in front and back.  Hight of collar was 3″.  Collars possessed the most elaborate and varied assortment of neckwear.

1894 fancy colors, in hot weather pale pink or blue stripes

the dress shirt.  one button on front. sometimes button in the back, while linen and fine pique.

il_570xN.732214488_eha1

the vest.  undershirt, ventilated undershirts of lambs wool with perforations in the armpits.

the drawers.  natural wool and lambs wool.  short pants of absorbent stockinette worn for exercise.

the braces. number of variations.

the nightclothes. Pajamas, replacing the nightshirt, in wool and silk.

the corset.  stiff band with ribs and is fastened to the pants.

dress accessories.  Flannel and leather chest protectors, sock suspenders, tie clips, metallic devices for holding down the tie round the upright collar, studs, and cufflinks.

ties:  Napoleons, black tied around neck.  twice-round scarf. derbies, oxfords, ascots, batswing, made up cravats.

neckclothitania-1818

 

Women 

The chemise.  worn until end 1880s, empire chemise appeared with a high waist and puffed shoulder sleeve.

the combinations.  woolen material, silk trimmed with lace.  New undergarment of fine muslin edged with lace combining low bodice, petticoat and drawers, worn over the corset which is worn over the vest, introduced by Marshall and Snelgrove 1892.

51f43dccf30ff996e3f6353f2db72d4e

 

shop_lady_Marshall_Snellgrove

 

the drawers.  worn over the combinations, frilled at the knees and becoming extremely wide in the leg, so that by 1895 the garment was as wide as the petticoat.

4524228d9cc5fd21e9841e03f6972996

the petticoats.  crinoline petticoats.

 

the bustle.  separate article from petticoat with back flouncing.

0bd204809fe838238335d72b95f311a8

the corset.  continued to be long waisted, elegant materials of silk, satin and brocade and in a variety of colors.

the vest.  silk stockinette

the bust bodice.  device to support the breasts introduced in 1889, worn above the corset.

33ccca6101d86a23d661e25e8679038c

bust improvers.  1887, cup-shaped wire structures.

bustimprover

imgres

the camisole. high and close fitting for day wear, and with a low V neck for evening; plain or trimmed with lace.

the nightgown.  frilling around the neck, with lace ruffles and jabot.  White silk.  1887 becoming pretty.

 

1897-1909

The spirit of costume, anticipating the Edwardian period, changed in character, and the new epoch began in 1897.  The influence of sport spreads taste for more comfortable clothes in daily life, and the top hat and frock coat were becoming a specialized uniform for particular occasions.   Feminine underclothes developed a degree of eroticism never previously attempted.  They invented a silhouette of fictitious curves, massive above, with rivulets of lacy embroidery trickling over the surface down to a whirlpool of froth.

Men

never a time in history when everybody was dressed so nearly alike. the badge of the working man as the white shirt was of the middle and professional classes.

the shirt.  Day, white shirt, linen cuffs, front; the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and by 1900’s the colored shirt for day wear was accepted.

the dress shirt.  changes little.

812f3e0619539dc38890290eb4aeeb2a

the dress-shirt protector.  popular end 1890’s worn to protect the shirt when the overcoat or evening cloak was worn.

1898-11-03_Winnipeg_Tribune_p4_edit_wm

the undervest.  natural wool or in summer silk or cotton.

the drawers and pants. similar materials to undervest. pants were ankle-length or mid-calf, drawers were either just below the knee or just above.

combination

the combinations.  vest and pants in one.

the pajamas.  replace the night shirt.

Women

A wish for dainty underwear is a desire for cleanliness.

the chemise. for day fine linen, batiste or lawn.  For evening of lawn or silk.

the combinations.  knicker and camisole combinations with lace, made of wool and silk and wool.

the corset.  the stays are straight and forward but leave the figure graceful and supple; whilst narrowing the back in a most surprising manner.  Chest expands. Gibson Girl silhouette.

1904

scan0001-2

the petticoat.  always flimsy; not more than two were worn, the top one, particularly when colored was referred to as an underskirt.

1902_petticoat2

the drawers.  nainsook knickers with frills of muslin embroidery; french drawers of mull muslin or washing silk, with flounce and three rows of insertion, threaded with baby ribbon, worn under lace or silk petticoat.

e6a01931c1d9909a16834a8055c30633

efc913d647425a2910ee1d7e72031fbe

the camisole.  corset covers – petticoat bodices, under clothing becomes thinner and thinner.

1906_jun_cover

bust improvers.  bust fashioned on Venus de Milo.  The Neena bust improver.

a8f223cf06adf1381f65f64cdc72e0e8

perfectform-361x500

the bust bodice.  worn above the corset

456108ede247d89fc932595eeab921ce

the nightclothes.  flimsier materials and elaborately trimmed.

259cb26dfd454afda6e027d1d8a4dbf2

the trousseaux. ladies undergarments.

1909-1918

Simplification in dress. Underclothes were permitting freer movement, growing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body.  Slowly realized that in the active life of the modern world so much clothing was unnecessary and a relic of obsolete ideas.

Men

progressive increase in the variety of articles available.

the shirt.  long fronted white or printed shirt is now obsolete.

the business shirt stiff 10″ front, detachable cuffs, for day the white shirt was being steadily displaced by the soft-fronted, made of flannel in winter and of cambric in summer.  Pleated and tucked fronts.  Day tie, four-in-hand, or bow knot.

the vest.  long or short sleeves; made of unbleached cotton, white gauze or net for summer, and of meriono.

the drawers and pants.  unbleached cotton, calico, gauze and merino.

the combinations still being worn.

the nightclothes.  Longcloth shirts and pajama’s

3a3d0e5eb1284c696af938515ba4dcb2

Women

the new silhouette, with a skirt of 1 1/2 yards round the hem, left little space for expansive underclothing.

the chemise.  square-cut with narrow shoulder straps.

the combination.  replaces the chemise and skirt-knickers by skin fitting combinations and silk pantalettes.

6a01156f47abbe970c013487e668b7970c

the corset.  corsets whether back or front lace, boning was all important, the strain on the garment was terrific. 1912 clock-spring steel covered with hard rubber or celluloid was adopted and whalebone never recovered.

images-1

corsets

the petticoat. Princess petticoat 1911.  1915 expands

8d6ddeed23e67968ecb6ff2848a6c43f

the Brassiere.  1916 a new undergarment which takes place of camisole.

debevoisebetter

the chemi-knickers.  1917 new under slip, worn over the corset, helping to reduce the number of undergarments; a button and loop can be put at the lowest hem to catch the skirt together in divided skirt fashion.

Underwear1913

the knickers.  french with wide frilled legs. skirt knickers.

bd637c588649e172284833a396b03cd7

the nightclothes. pre-war the nightdress.  Pajama suit has a growing interest.

1919-1939

new attitude of mind towards the function of clothing and underclothing.

“skin worship”  devotees tanned their bodies by sunlight, real or artificial, or by stains; women improve their faces with paints, lotions and skin foods containing hormones.  Focus on the face they cut off their hair.  glorification of youth.

Men

Prince of Wales, publicly condemned “the boiled shirt” Garish colors in dress was the new spirit.

the shirt.  for day wear.  oxford shirt with white collar and cuffs. the dress-shirt single stud, white pleated front.  the sports shirt, cotton or wool taffeta, turn collar.

884677e20160ec898e41fa42f548c7b4

the combination. derived from America, one piece suit for underwear in place of a vest and pants.

the shorts and trunks.  made with lastex wasitbands, generally worn by 1930.

d8f580d33bef025f5b12adc59061bef1

the singlet.  jersey necks and quarter sleeves, low neck, sleeveless displaced in vest in 1930’s.

the pajamas.  light weight in a wide choice of materials.

6659055.0f4d6ae2.640

 

women

no period in history has presented a great variety of underclothes and though so much reduced in bulk, they developed a new importance and complexity.  Many materials employed, artificial silk in various forms dominated, and was available for all classes.

the garments were divided into two headings: single and composite.

Single –

the chemise.  “the vest”

the undervest. wool was unfashionable garment

the combinations.  close fitting woven garment, becoming almost tights during the 1930’s

vest combinations

the camisole. disappeared as a separate  garment towards end of 1920s

1548816746546406681vEQRZYvc

the brassiere.  becoming the bra in 1937.  Developed from the bust bodice and in the 1920’s becomes very tight, compressing the breasts to produce the straight, shapeless form then fashionable.

d8a977e0e6516759178a5da569f5623a

the corset.  wrap-around rubber corsets to compress the buttocks.  corsets to produce a slenderizing effect on the figure.

 

f4a9e36c8ae4c5599ce7a7f02e54fdc6

5a0beabb02bbb75aca8ece1f20cf891f

88c922763c182b8eb732647661c97691

the belt.  substitute for the corset, varied from abdominal supports to light suspender belts with or without bones.

unnamed2

a3b805e6084b38520a24f00dd2c4632a

the knickers. french drawers with open legs, and closed knickers.  1924 shortened into panties.

f06f85bfcae2a843a4a5a96aacc69c03

Peach-silk-charmeuse-lingerie-set-brassiere-and-tap-pants-with-lace-appliqués-and-trim-by-Boué-Soeurs-French-1920s-397x500

the petticoat.  becomes the princess slip.

Shaugnessy-Olovnit-Princess-Slip

 

The Composite.

the corselette.

2574f02252386f2718142b2f7499f3b4

the cami-knickers .

4278952853_1dc0db2c0b_z

the cami-bockers.

 

c0101450a45a4482f012382eeb2fca3c

ae818bfde3061aee3e3736cbdfff34d5

WomensInstitutessmUnderwear_cropped-575x455

the nightclothes.  reflect the spirit of the dress of the period.

41fa807d850d88088de38bcae97b5f1d

1940’s

Bra

daa07a142bb1bbcd5725071026543ea3

f21f8de15311471e3ab27b0d87ba63c0

knitpat88uwa

89a2198fd60d6d2a79e5782f1a181440

 

1950’s

stalite389a

1957-corset-merry-widow-400x241

spirella

1950s_underwear

1950s-underwear-1

1960’s

4187067537_c71a30a8f0

phpthumb_generated_thumbnailjpg

1960s-lingerie

4301716143_28361fb126_b

5076614416_3408e34717